RedeFINE Robusta with Maya Nguyen
A Fresh Perspective on Robusta in the Third-Wave Specialty Coffee.
Today I’m super excited to share an article that y’all that hasn’t been written by yours truly. Instead, I'm offering my (smol) platform to a dear friend of mine, Maya Nguyen—who happens to own a roaster in Vermont!
This is our first guest article at CTRL+POUR—and it won’t be our last!
Author’s Note: Throughout this article, “robusta” is a broad term referring to Cafea Canephora, akin to how “coffee” relates often broadly to Coffea Arabica.
Understanding Coffea
There are two major categories that divide coffee: Canephora (Robusta) and Arabica. Smooth, complex flavors characterize arabica beans, which growers typically cultivate at higher elevations. They are also more susceptible to pests and diseases, which generally them more expensive to produce.
On the other hand, robusta beans exhibit a more robust, “bitter”1 flavor profile and farmers often cultivate them at lower elevations. They’re also more resistant to pests and diseases, making cultivating them more accessible and cheaper (in theory).
A New Narrative
The narrative of robusta hinges on its ability to be a sustainable alternative to arabica amidst ongoing climate change. While sustainability is necessary, we must give more credence to the farmers, Q-graders, and everyone else in the supply chain by valuing it as a product based on the merit of its taste, not its durability.
Statistically speaking, the average US-based coffee professional has tasted hundreds (if not thousands) of different coffees, depending on their role and time in the industry. For the sake of this article, Aireus performed a broad survey among coffee professionals to determine the amount of robusta they have consumed throughout their careers.
We asked five different coffee professionals two distinct questions. Each of these five individuals has varying amounts of expertise in the industry, so we like to think we captured the essence of the industry at large;
How many coffees have you tasted?
How many of those were robusta?
On average, these professionals have tasted approximately 718 Arabica coffees and about 10 Robusta coffees each. This means robusta makes up approximately 1.33% of the total coffees tasted by the surveyed coffee professionals.
Beyond this small anecdotal study, I looked into the Coffee Quality Institute (CQI) for more data. There are 9081 Q-Graders for Arabica and 592 Q-Graders for Robusta, meaning robusta Q-graders make up only 6.12% of all total Q-graders.
Maya’s Journey
Before delving into robusta in 2019, I distinctly recall the two times I’d tried it: once on drip at The Lab at Royal NY and once as espresso at a cafe I managed. Both times, I recoiled at the thought of drinking it again—it reminded me of burnt tires.
Thankfully, a lot has changed since then. There’s been much more accessible, higher-quality robusta coffee in the United States.
Before deciding to compete with an anaerobic2 robusta in the 2023 US Barista Championship, I had only experienced tasting and preparing robusta a handful of times. Based on my experiences, the anaerobic process, when applied to robusta, could develop a heightened faux acidity on the palate.
I intended to use Nguyen Coffee Supply’s Anaerobic Robusta for the USBC nationals to make robusta more approachable to the arabica-centric palates that represented the main stage. While preparing for the competitive season, I discovered that everything I knew about robusta was challenged. Throughout the process, I had to unlearn and relearn different principles, as most of what I’d learned in the industry was misinformation based on deep-rooted practices.
My House, My Rules;
New Beans, New Tools
Since then, I’ve focused on seeking fine robusta3 and sharing it with as many people as possible. While doing so, it is essential to establish resources to support education around robusta.
With that, I need to be blunt. The tools we’ve been given to evaluate coffee as a whole (flavor wheel, elevation chart, brewing chart, etc.) have all been centered on arabica, making it incredibly difficult to standardize practices specifically for robusta.
Though I understand why this is, I can’t help but feel frustrated. Writing off robusta is one of the most close-minded things the specialty coffee scene has done. Elitism against robusta is so deep-rooted that packaging around the world boasts “100% Arabica” to imply inherent value. For years, we have built the false narrative that arabica has the potential to be specialty coffee and robusta does not. As such, seeing that narrative crack has been encouraging. Over the past few years, we’ve seen more fine robusta pop up in the specialty coffee scene as coffee professionals and consumers recognize robusta has its place in our industry.
When I think about specialty coffee, one thing I think about is all the little details that people put into serving it. It’s not only the coffee that’s special; it’s the experience as well. Then I think about how robusta has been presented to curious baristas in the past. How have we set their expectations? How do those expectations affect the way they experience the coffee?
It has become clear that, alongside the growth of the fine robusta market, coffee professionals must learn how to properly evaluate, roast, and brew this species of coffee.
Speaking from personal experience, it’s tough to forget everything you know about brewing arabica and start from scratch with robusta. My best recommendations (after a lot of trial and error, with help from many friends) are as follows (in no particular order):
Grind finer than you think you need to. I have consistently had issues on the USBC stage with grinders being incapable of grinding my coffee fine enough to taste the way I wanted it to (oddly, this has not been an issue in my cafe).4
Lower the temperature of your water by about 10 degrees Fahrenheit, or between 5 and 6 degrees Celsius.
For roasting, do a faster roast at a lower temperature and roast lighter. Don’t fret if the exact end temperature on a robusta appears much lighter than it would on an arabica—this is normal!
Longer degassing times can yield incredible results, so let your coffee age significantly.
There is something freeing about learning almost solely through experimentation and firsthand sensory experiences, but it is also a long and challenging process. Hopefully this article and these tips will empower you to utilize robusta in your home or cafe!
To help you further, here’s a brief (and certainly not exhaustive) guide on where to order fine robusta: Paradise Coffee Roasters, New Math, Nguyen Coffee Supply, Portland Ca Phe, Kawa Moka, Nam Coffee, Caffe Ibis, Vietnam Ca Phe Project, Suedhang Coffee, Uncommon Coffee, Rabbit Hole Roasters and FAT MIILK.
Caffeine is inherently bitter and robusta beans have on average, about twice as much caffeine as their arabica counterparts.
Anaerobic coffee refers to coffee that is processed using an anaerobic fermentation method. This method involves fermenting the coffee beans in an environment devoid of oxygen.
The term “fine robusta” refers to specialty-grade robusta.
There can be several, several varying factors.. Including humidity.. water quality.. Maybe we’ll break this down later.